Anti-Corrosion

The difficulty with these jobs is that the process of preparation is extremely time-consuming when using any kind of normal coatings to treat corrosion or even rust converter.  For example, to use Deox-Gel you must remove all loose coatings and corrosion, apply the gel and leave it working for around six hours then scrub with

Each time the vehicle is exposed to water spray these areas with a 2-5% concentrated solution of Atom-Mac diluted in water. This will not interfere with the function in these areas, but corrosion inhibitors carried by vapour phase protect from flash corrosion.

No, a rust converter like Hydrate-80 will only convert the surface layer of corrosion. The area must be mechanically cleaned of corrosion as much as possible and then used to convert remaining corrosion in small pits, hardening into a hard surface that is primed for further paint coatings. Within corroded cavity sections, existing corrosion and muck cannot

There may be a build-up of muck around the inner wheel arch lip. Remove any plastic liners and clean it back. With abrasive, remove all existing coatings. Remove pitted corrosion with Deox-Gel. This may need repeat application and make sure work is carried out over 10 degrees C as it will be too cold to work

Remove the old coating completely and grind back with abrasive, then use Deox-Gel repeatedly until steel is clean. After this, apply Electrox, and top with Epoxy Mastic. Dynax-UB can be added too to further boost corrosion protection. It is also important to access rear of panel and treat with Dynax-S50.

Our wax-based anticorrosives are best for this. If the arches have liners remove them and clean out any mud or debris then apply Dynax-S50. On areas not covered by liner use Dynax-UB. This is a firmer film, however it will need top ups as it slowly wears from the surface by discharge from the wheels. Top up

Surfaces that have been stripped of rust by a rust removal products (such as Deox-C and Deox-Gel) or by mechanical means, are susceptible to flash corrosion and rusting, especially in damp or humid conditions. If you are unable to apply a primer or paint to the surface right away after the de-rusting process there are solutions to this

Use Deox-C to clear the rust, rinse with water and dry with compressed or warm air gun after treatment. Fill the tank with petrol as soon as you can, if this is not possible, use Ferrosol or Atom-Mac to prevent flash rusting. If Deox-C is splashed onto exterior paintwork, this should be wiped away but will not damage the paintwork. Don’t use any

There are two methods to do this, one is for thorough, robust protection, the other is quicker and simply provides a layer of wax protection.  For maximum, protection: Abrasive cleaning to remove all old coatings and as much corrosion as possible Degrease using Surfex-HD Apply Deox-Gel rust remover. Repeat until clean steel is achieved. Clean and dry surface.

It typically takes 4 x 750ml aerosols to completely treat a medium sized vehicle. One litre of product typically covers 8-10 square metres when applied by brush or spray.

Dynax UB, Dynax UC and Dynax-S50 are wax-like coatings to provide protection from corrosion in areas such as the underside of your car and box sections. Dynax-UB is a dark coating, while Dynax-UC is for use in visible areas where a darker coating would detract from the look. Dynax-S50 is optimised for injection into cavities. All three of these products can be used in all

The best treatment is to completely remove the corrosion with Deox-Gel. Follow this with a coat of Electrox.

Deox-C makes up a bath which is perfect for items that can be submerged. Deox-gel clings to the surface for use on corrosion that cannot be submerged in a bath. Hydrate-80 is for use on areas of steel that have been manually removed of rust to create a barrier which will convert remaining corrosion and prevent further corrosion.